Rajasthan was gifted with a very wet monsoon season last year: Ranthambhore’s verdant nature had returned and the wildlife rediscovered their Arcadia. In October, as you meandered through the jungle, you were able to witness the park’s rebirth, the dhok trees flourishing in their senility, the grass long, thick and lush and the network of water channels flowing full. This allows wildlife to disperse throughout the park and the numerous watering holes scattered around the area were full for cheetal, or sambar deer to quench their thirst and leafy groves for nilgai antelope to browse and feast upon.
Read More A Walk Through the Seasons at Sher Bagh
If PG Wodehouse were to have heard the alarm calls of the cheetal stag which nearly punctured my ear-drums last Monday morning, he would have described it as “a sort of yelp rather like a wolf that sees its peasant getting away…” The stricken-anxiety palely obvious in the yelp of the said deer was instead signalling the approach of a tigress, who looked like a Goddess of Death clearly running late for work, on a manic Monday morning. Read More A Tale of Two Mothers (With Apologies to P.G. Wodehouse!)
Get lost in time, as, ‘Time is History’ and ‘History is Time’.
The ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur, in Rajasthan, welcomes you to ‘SUJÁN Rajmahal Palace’, one of the oldest and most treasured properties of the capital city. To understand the historical importance of this heritage property, built in 1729, one has to divulge back in time, to see the many transformations, in its over almost 300 years of existence. Read More SUJÁN Rajmahal Palace, Jaipur
While the legendary Machhli (T16) is celebrated the world over as the quintessential queen mother of Ranthambhore and global concern over her advancing age and failing health has reached obsessive and hysterical proportions, there is another Grande Dame that is quietly writing her own chapter in the history book of Ranthambhore tigers. Read More The other mother
The magic of the Indian wilderness goes a step further when you reach The Jawai Leopard Camp.
Sprawled between Udaipur and Jodhpur, Jawai is one of a series of hamlets strung around the Jawai dam in the Aravalli hills of Rajasthan. A place of dramatic beauty, the panoramic vista is dotted with small African Kopje-like hills which surround the water body, Cactus-like scrub, Flame-of-the –forest trees and sparsely populated farmland. Read More JAWAI Leopard Camp
We visited Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve and stayed at the wonderful Sher Bagh for the first time this May. The weather was very hot but glad we suffered through it as we were very fortunate to see a total of six different tigers and an extraordinary sighting on the morning of our last day of safaris. Read More Once upon a safari
To visit Ranthambhore National Park is always a pleasure because to see a Tiger in the wilderness is a thrilling experience no matter how many times you see it.
At the end of November we were in Ranthambhore again, and we had the luck to be witness to an amazing lesson in Tiger lifestyle, given by the Tigress T-19 (Brat) to her two big boys, Akash & Suraj. (We know Yusuf doesn’t like these names but at the moment these are their unofficial names). Read More The Last Lesson
Blink and you’ll miss the undulating desert track that meanders off the surprisingly well-paved Jodhpur/Jaisalmer highway and plonks you in the middle of a sublime mirage. But one wonders whether this is a deliberate attempt to protect a treasure?
The Serai is one such treasure comprising of supreme luxury, of whiter than white tents infused with understated elegance, coupled with unrivaled attentive care and, hold your breath, gingerly nestled in 100 acres of desert where you can stand on a clump of bush and watch the weather roll in… Read More A visit to The Serai, Jaisalmer
In June this year, 2013, Jaisalmer was declared an UNESCO World Heritage Site, a great tribute to this surviving mediaeval fortified city, its palaces and havelis finely carved in yellow sandstone, the colour of the Thar desert. For centuries Jaisalmer, built by Rawal Jaisal in 1156 AD, was an oasis on the inter-continental trade route linking India with Central Asia, Persia, Egypt, Africa and beyond. In 1974 Indira Gandhi visited the city and declared it a protected site but despite that Jaisalmer was neglected and allowed to degrade without a conservation management plan and the necessary enforcement of laws and norms to ensure its protection within the parameters of it being a living city and therefore, a living ‘monument’. Read More The Golden Fortress of Jaisalmer